Dasher

Plan A was to launch at Arisaig, paddle to Eigg, then Muck, then Rum and finally Canna.
Plan B was to catch the ferry to Eigg.

In either case, the first point to get to was the beautifully scenic campsite at Back of Keppoch.

Skye from Back of Keppoch, Arisaig

Route planning in the Highlands can be very simple. Often there is but one road. So when a message from Traffic Scotland came through that the A82/A830 was blocked, we needed to react. Driving south on the A82 towards Fort William, we saw the traffic queue and executed a rapid U turn and used the single track with passing places from Spean Bridge to cross the Caledonian Canal at Gairlochy and come out onto the A830 at Banavie.

Nevis was looking wonderful.

Looking onto Nevis from the start of the Caledonian Canal at Corpach.

A small back track to Caol for fish and chips before heading to Arisaig with only a minor delay for us but the road was closed for seven hours. Delays however pale into insignificance: the cause was the police investigation of a fatal collision between a cyclist and a lorry. Our sympathy of course to the family and friends of the tourist who was killed.

Ready for ferry at Mallaig

It was a glorious evening in Arisaig and eventually all but one of the group assembled with Rob who needed fuel forced to wait in Fort William until the road cleared. At 6.30am was decision time between Plan A and Plan B and with the wind getting up overnight, the safer option of taking the ferry across to Eigg, avoiding an open water crossing of over 10km was made. So onto Mallaig, load the boats by the ferry departure point, repark the cars, carry the loaded boats onto the ferry and finally settle down to the Calmac breakfast.

Boats loaded onto the Loch Nevis

The sea state from the ferry looked not bad and we had the delight of dolphins surfing the bow wave. Arriving at Eigg, via Muck, a rapid unload of the boats, leaving them on the slipway while we adjourned to the Eigg cafe for a snack and took a walk for a while on Eigg ready to launch at 1pm.

Setting off from Galmisdale, Eigg

Eigg is community owned and is therefore unlike any other island. It generates its own power from a mix of solar, wind and hydro, providing the residents with 24/7 power for the first time - so long as they don't consume more than 5kW at once (10kW for businesses).
It'd be good to return to spend more time exploring - ideally in better weather.

We then paddled north to round the tip and paddle down to Traigh na Bigil, strand of the chirping or more popularly the Singing Sands. And they do. Chirp is a good word for the noise. Can you imagine 7 kayakers dancing and skipping on the sands?

As it rained in the evening we had a convivial evening with 7 people in tent for 2.

That view from the Singing Sands of Eigg to Rum

Rule 1 of kayaking : secure those boats

Up fairly early so we'd catch the south going tidal stream to help push us over to Muck. We landed a the obvious beach towards the north end at Gallanach for lunch with three grey ponies being quite curious about us. We then carried on round the island anti-clockwise, leaving the boats tied together on the beach at Port Mor while we investigated the 24/7 craft shop, and the cafe/craft shop. The boats were floating by the time we returned. Completing the circumnavigation took us to Gallanach for an overnight camp.

View north from Gallanch, Muck with Skye framed by Rum and Eigg

Catching the last of the north going stream towards Rum arriving at the bay of Harris by 11am with a plan to leave again at 3pm to catch the stream again towards Canna.

So we set off to explore the Bulloch Mausoleum and the fantastic scenery of this National Nature Reserve, recognised for its geology, habitats, and wildlife. The island is owned by the state with the inhabited portion now run by a Community Trust.

The Greek temple is the Bulloch or Bullough family Mausoleum,
perhaps one of the weirdest sights on a wild coast.

However by 3pm the tide had dropped and rather than a shingle beach, the boats would need to be carried over rocky outcrops and rocks to the sea. No-one liked the idea so we decided to spend more time on Rum and paddled to Canna the next morning. Plan C, aiming to meet the ferry at Canna at 2pm.

Harris bay, Rum

Not the greatest picture of a Golden Eagle
but as you can see it was a murky day

One of the delights of wild camping is a beach bonfire, the only place to have a fire without destroying vegetation. There is little better than sitting round a fire yarning away, passing round beer, wine and whisky. You might pay for this the next morning ...

A wet and windy morning - but little choice but to head north. But before we set off we were rewarded with a Golden Eagle flying overhead.

The sea was rough as we headed to the western point A' Bhrideanach (the place of the oystercatchers. From Gille Bhrìde, Oystercatcher, literally St Bride's companion). Just round the point was a little calmer but there were squalls of wind and the crossing to Canna wasn't looking attractive.

You can only take pictures in the relative calm,
even from a double

So Plan D, carry on round the coast of Rum to meet the ferry at Kinloch at 3pm. After a brief halt at Guirdil with gorgeous red deer stags much in evidence, we pressed on. Surely the sea state would be better after the next headland.

It wasn't. A big following sea tested the skills and nerves of everyone but we came through safely and eventually rounded the north point to calm seas and a fairly straightforward but rapid paddle. A big thank you to the dolphin that leapt from the water directly in front of us as we approached the turn to Loch Scresort.

Waiting for the ferry from Rum to Mallaig.
Luxury is a pair of dry pants.

I think we were all relieved to get to Kinloch in time for the ferry back to Mallaig on time.

Next time, we will get to Canna ...

Thanks for Donald for organising the trip - and planning all the options in case of changes in conditions. The party was completed with Anne, Lesley, Rob, Brian and my co-paddler in the double, Gordon: fantastic company as ever.